We’ll probably upset half the youth of London with this post….then again that hasn’t ever stopped us in the past! A lesson London needs to learn we say!

SINS OF STYLE 17 -NEW ERAS WITH SUITS

MODEL : MARTELL CAMPBELL

PHOTOGRAPHY: PHARAOH

WORDS: REUBEN CHRISTIAN

DESIGN: GLENN ANGELO

Check out the full series here: www.individualism.co.uk/sinsofstyle

Hey guys.

Back again with this lovely tweed number. Tweed is a classic and timeless fabric and is a lot more versatile people think. And I’m going to show you a few!

This week it’s a choice of cordroy or cotton trousers, a smart shirt, and some high boots or brouges…

Yorkshire-woven 11.5oz Herringbone Tweed Three Button Jacket – by Toast

Dark Brown Leather Wallet – by Ben Sherman

Khaki Canvas Backpack – by Sandqvist

White Cotton Micro-Check Shirt – by Balenciaga

Navy Cotton Slim Fit Shirt With Stiff collar – by Zegna

Black Stretch Cord Trousers – by Nicole Farhi

Sand Coloured Slim-fit Cotton Trousers – by Nicole Farhi

Bees Wax Brown High Leather Dessert Boots – by Clarks Original

Tan Classic Brogue Shoes – by Grenson

Keep It Krispy.

Outside the Topman Design show, Ayishat & Louize are now also working with Amir Khan. You go girls!

We got to hang out with the super-cool Street Etiquette guys, Joshua and Travis during the day. Head over to our Facebook to see more

NR. Where did you get your original inspiration from for the new collection?

OB. I was on holiday in Kenya where I took my 11 year old daughter and 8 year old son on safari. We went to 5 different camps and took these tiny little planes that flew us to each camp. It was the first trip I had gone with me and the kids, no air support or any back-up, so it was just me and the kids. And the way they were looking at me like “you sure you can handle this?”, I replied “yeah I can handle this, don’t worry guys it’ll be fun”. We arrive at the run way, there’s this tiny little plane that looks like its going to fall out of the sky  but we get to the camp, all is good. We have to get up at like 4:30-5:ooam for safari, the kids are in they’re own tent, I’m in my tent, wild animals everywhere. You wake up and you have that beautiful early morning from the light and colours in the sky. I’m in the traditional kind of safari look, my kids are in any kind of look, anything thats anti-daddy works. But I’m looking at our safari guide, and he’s in all these amazing colours. Turquoise, burnt orange, red, green and I’m like wow! I’m looking at him, he’s the guide, the one who’s meant to be finding the animals. I’m looking at what I’m wearing, I’m looking at what he’s wearing and I’m going…how is it that I’m wearing this because I’m supposed to camouflage myself so these animals don’t see me, but the man who’s actually going to take me to them is…

NR … dressed like a target? [laughs]

OB [laughs] So how does that work? I said this (his camouflage outfit) has got to be nonsense. I’m going to go back, and create a collection which is based on that richness of colour.

NR What is your design process, how do you go about creating a collection from start to finish?

OB I’ve always been one to not follow any specific trend, I just kinda go and do my thing. I think the most important question for designers is, why do you create? Do people feel good in what you’ve created for them? So I start with a concept, and then basically,[find out] how what I’ve created for them makes them feel. For me, thats the most important thing.

NR How do you feel your collections have evolved since you first started designing?

OB Sometimes I look back and I’m like, wooow! Other times I’m like, ok. As a whole I’d say its distinctively me, there’s not been a point where I’ve moved so far away from where I started  that you don’t realise thats me anymore, but in the same breath it is different. If you look at one collection where I started to now, you’ll see a similarity but you’ll also see its moved. If I was to define what those changes are… when I started I was very narrow minded. I needed everyone to see what I was seeing. Now I’m much wider in my vision, because I’m very relaxed about what people think. I wanted to be known for the suits, I’ve done that now. So the consequence of that is I can experiment with other things, because my name is now linked to that. When I first started way back when it was, when you said my name, what did it mean? I knew when you said the great designers you had a picture of what they created. At that time it was Armani and Chanel, there was an immediate picture, and they were known for bringing something to design. I was always about shape and form, at that time suits were unstructured, very fluid and baggy. My whole concept was I’m going to put the structure back into suits, that was always my objective when I started back in…1987. 1992-93 it started to gel, then when I started my shows in 1994 all the way to 2000 thats when I’d say I dominated Paris Fashion Week in menswear.

NR What advice would you give to a young man who is trying to increase the size of his sartorial wardrobe, on a lower budget?

OB I think when you’re doing that you have to be a bit more aware, sample sales are a good one. Going into shops, understanding what the discounts are, for example during sale period. There’s a whole approach to acquiring a wardrobe on a budget. Second hand clothes are a really good way to go, it might not be the right fit but have a tailor nip in the waist and then there you are, you’re in. Not just for clothes, that also goes for shoes and accessories. Portobello, you can’t beat that, but you gotta look for it. So it requires a bit more patience. There is a technique and way to do it, which I think is more common with women having that technique than with men. Get all your basics; like a plain black pair of trousers from Topman, and then build on that. You might go to a designer, go to their sale, figure out how much its gonna cost. Its drops to 50, alright closer, and then maybe 25, closer. Basically you’re stalking that piece.

NR At Individualism we like to advise men on certain style do’s and don’ts which we like to call, “Sins of Style”. Have you witnessed any Sins of Style that have made you just think, what are you doing?

OB Many times!

NR [laughs]

OB I used to have a real critical eye about that, but now its a lot more toned down. It used to really irritate me and get under my skin, but you can’t live like that. If I was going to say one, an ill fitting jacket, for me is always a bit of a problem. And the worse ill fitting it is, the more painful it becomes. I can’t stand an ill fitting jacket! But I had to correct myself on that, because it was really starting to get to me.

NR We’ve got one like that, we say no string bags with suits. Or no sunglasses at night/night clubs.

OB [laughs] There’s a lot of rock-stars that do that, but its not the look, I agree with you on that.

After talking with Mr Boateng, I was approached by Joe McCanta from Grey Goose. Ever had a bespoke cocktail made for you? Its something I could definitely get used to those.

Peruse the full SS12 lookbook here and keep up to date with everything Boateng here

Be Eclectic

Name: Marcus

Occupation: Illustrator

As we can see Marcus is wearing a 3-piece suit, but let’s take a closer look.

Straight away we notice the print. Originally known as a Glen Plaid or Glen Urquhart Check, it’s now commonly known as a Prince of Wales Check.

It was given this name as it was made popular by probably one of the most best dressed royals, Edward VIII – Prince of Wales, who later became the Duke of Windsor.

More of a countryman’s suit, it was made of woven wool fabrics to keep that brisk country wind away from the body. Nowadays you can get the print on thinner, more breathable fabrics -to give you the look minus the sweat if gets too hot, which I must say in London, isn’t that often.

With such a heavily patterned suit, I think Marcus did the right thing to have just a plain white shirt underneath. And the french cuff or double cuff, adds a subtle flair. Now all he needed was The Flying Scotsman to pull up behind him!

Be Eclectic

Name: Myles

Occupation: Full time Student

Favourite shop: Zara

Never be caught in: Tesco

Myles is wearing: Sunglasses by Ray Ban, Denim Jacket by New Look, T-shirt by H&M, Chinos by River Island, Watch by G-Shock and Sneakers by Nike

Name: Jack

Occupation: Retail

Favourite shop: Ben Sherman

Never be caught in: All Saints

Jack is wearing: Suit by Burton, Shirt by Primark and Tie by Red Herring

Name: Terry

Occuaption: Retail manager

Favourite shop: Vintage stores

Never be caught in: Blue Inc

Terry is wearing: Shirt by British Heart Foundation, Chinos by Topman and Sneakers by Converse

Name: Naji

Favourite shop: Present

Never be caught in: “Nowhere is off limits”

Naji’s quote is very true and you can see that in his outfit. I can imagine he knows all the best places for those hidden gems, the last place you would think to find a great addition to the wardrobe. I also think Naji is brave for rolling up his jeans in this current weather; the winter wind goes straight through me!

Name: Dale

Occupation: Illustrator

Favourite shop: Albam

Never be caught in: River Island

I like how Dale is starting to brighten up the SSS post as we are fast approaching Spring. His jacket is by Jil Sander, the super-cool holdall is from Gap and shoes by Grenson.

Name: Alfie-Lee

Occupation: Suit Specialist, Topman Oxford Circus

Favourite shop: Fred Perry

Never be caught in: All Saints

Yes, he does look familiar doesn’t he… For regular viewers, you’ll remember Alfie from the previous SSS…and you can understand why he is here again. This look is classic and simple; herringbone suit and an Oxford button down…a great example of ‘less is more’. Two thumbs up!

Be Eclectic

1. Thou shalt not wear a string bag over a suit.

Unless you’re auditioning for an episode of ‘Hollyoaks Later’, where you’re playing a wanker the group met on a trip ‘into town’, best not to be seen wearing a string bag over a suit. OK? Good.

2. Thou shalt not wear un-fitted shirts

Billowing shirts are for love scenes in 80′s films. If you’re not in one, don’t be in one.

3. Thou shalt never fasten then bottom button of a suit

Never do up the bottom button on a suit. Every time you do this, somewhere a kitten dies.

4. Thou shalt not wear clamp belts with dress trousers

Roller belts with dress trousers are only acceptable on the 30th and 31st of February.

5. Thou shalt not wear trainers with suits

Wearing trainers with suits looked good for Robbie Williams in the noughties, but he’s worth £100 million and can wear what he likes. Unfortunately, you’re probably not. So don’t.

6. Thou shalt never wear Sports Pouches….EVER.

Sports pouches are functional for athletes who are training and need to carry stuff. You’re not an athlete. And no, darts isn’t a sport.

7.Thou shalt not wear oversized suits

Oversized suits are for little boys at family parties who skid on their knees and can pull off funky sunglasses and a toothless grin. You doing any of the same is wrong for many, many reasons.

8. Thou shalt not have frayed jeans

Frayed jeans belong on Dallas. Or cowboys. Not in Croydon on a Saturday night.

9. Thou shalt not wear sunglasses at night EVER!

Wearing sunglasses at night are for rappers or rapers. Which one are you? Clue: ‘neither’ is the right answer.

10. Thou shalt not go bare chested with deep V-neck tops

Low cut tops for men are a bad thing. Men shouldn’t have nipples. Any item of clothing which exposes them is essentially evil.

PHOTOGRAPHY: GLENN ANGELO
WORDS: ROGER AJOGBE
MODELS : AARON & REUBEN CHRISTIAN

Name: Alfie-Lee

Occupation: Suit Specialist/Topman Oxford Circus

Favourite shop: Fred Perry

Never be caught in: All Saints

A classic white Oxford button-down is like a blank canvas for you to paint a sartorial piece of art. That statement was a bit over the top but still very true! Alfie-Lee’s look works even better because he didn’t try and use another shade of beige or brown to co-ordinate this ensemble. And those desert boots – big fan!

Name: Colin

Occupation: Tube Driver

Favourite shop: Cordings in Piccadilly

Never be caught in: Primark

Colin surprised me when he stated he was a tube driver, but it shouldn’t have. A man’s attire doesn’t always have to dictate his occupation. This herringbone 3-piece is great!

Name: Paul

Occupation: N/A

Favourite shop: Hackett, Savile Row, Jermyn Street

Never be caught in: ?

Now I spotted Paul on my journey back home, my carriage went past him as he was standing on the platform. So I did what anyone else would do, jumped out the carriage and ran along the platform (evasively dodging the crowd) looking into the train until I found him…that IS what everyone else would do right?

Anyway we got talking and he was an extremely interesting man. So much so that I completely forgot to ask his occupation and where he would never shop, we got caught up in art history. This bold check 3-piece he acquired from Hackett… enough said really.

Be Eclectic

Yes people is that time of the week again, let me introduce you to Mr Kid Cudi!

He’s one of them, yeah you know, one of those hipster kids; always looking stylish and knowing their brands, you often seem them in their trademark skinny jeans and Supreme hats… it’s all about the HYPE THING!

I do like Cudi’s clothes but the whole hipster thing is becoming pretty old; when put together well, it looks good but I’ve grown tired of it since all the guys in the shop I work in talk about trainers, hats, trainers and blah blah blah *yawn*

Cudi rocks check shirts well and he usually teams them with a pair of geek specs (it’s worth pointing out that the ‘nerd’ look has been played to death). I wear glasses, yet every time I wear them I’m constantly thinking about it, silly eh? :p

I think he could dress a little smarter (like the second pic), skip the glasses and show off them tatts and he will be on point! And I must say, a kilt is a bloody good look on him! Hipster with a Highland touch? What more can you wish for a man to wear!

 Oh and I hope he wears some kind of underwear underneath?! Keep it up Kid Cudi, kilts rock!

What he does well:

No-one pulls off a kilt like Cudi I must say. Sometimes going for something totally different really works. Or maybe try wearing formal garments in non-traditional ways. Here, Kudi’s wearing a kilt casually, but why not play about with Cummerbunds or lapel pins?

What to learn from him:

The high street and hip hangouts have been taken over by the hipster gang, so if you are going to go down that road, make sure you do it with a unique twist - play with all different styles… why go for one when you can have everything

Mix and match and do it well!

Stay FRESH!